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คิดว่านั่งปั้นเอาเห็นเม็ดกลมดีเลยบางยี่ห้อ  ้hahaha ้hahaha ล้อเล่นนะครับ

How to make less fertile aquasoils to be 'ada-like'.

As I have already mentioned, all listed above aquasoils is much less fertile comparing to ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia. We easily can make aquasoils much more fertile adding two main things:
1) long term nutrients resource in organic form as earthworm castings + inorganic slow release macronutrients as Osmocoat®;
2) Fritted Trace Elements as a source of microelements.
Furthermore, we can boost bacteria cultures with proper aquarium biostarter, and initial growth by adding biostimulator promoting root development and by inoculating substrate with mychorrhizal fungi, or even a Deep sea water minerals.

Long term organic nutrients source.
Earthworm castings is absolutely the same organics as in any ADA Aquasoils except much less humic substances content buffering GH/KH/pH at stable and low levels. Fortunately all listed here aquasoils already have humic substances in abundance. DO NOT use garden soil as source of organics and do not mineralize it; earthworm castings (EC) is the best product you can ever find as it is already “mineralized” by earthworms, x5 more concentrated than any garden soil, has no high labile rotting organics and thus no ammonium NH4 release, brings no useless sand and clays in your tank. To get the same amount of nutrients you need 5 times less of earthworm castings than garden soil, thus much less mess and clogging from the very start, longer aquascape life, and easier maintenance. Plants use both non organic nutrients derived from bacterial decomposition of organics, and dissolved organic nitrogen DON (amino acids) etc directly by roots and leaves. Prior to use put earthworm castings into pail, add some water just to be able to mix it with a stick, and boil for 10-15min to minimize ammonia NH4 release and prevent bacteria blooms (haze water). Spread over and let it dry until lightly wet. Do not remove all water prior to this to keep more nutrients. Do not overdry as it will make it hard like stone and dusty, thus inconvenient for application. There is no need to mix it with sand or gravel - just put 1-2cm on the bottom and cover with any aquasoil, substrate with high CEC as calcined clays, or just plain gravel.

Inorganic slow release macronutrients.
You can also add some slow release macronutrients as long term non organic nutrient source. Valagro Actiwin® 20-5-10 Green Grade (3-4 months) is the best among others, specifically much better than Osmocote® Pro (up to 12-14 months). Use it as addition to earthworm castings, not as only one source of nutrients. Actiwin® contains no Na, Cl, SO4. Further use DIY frozen earthworm castings sticks similar to ADA Multi Bottom and/or Valagro Actiwin® granules to recover substrate fertility. Use SO4-free fertilizers only as in anoxic conditions and low pH it will turn into H2S.

It is quite hard to introduce PO4 source in substrate as inorganic phosphate easily washed out and not very well bonded by CEC. Hard rock phosphate (Espoma® Rock Phosphate) is a natural mineral apatite (P2O5=12-30%, Ca 22-33%) and is very good long term slow release supply of PO4 for plants. It is totally non soluble in water and available for plants only when they use special organic acids to sequester P from it. If we mention chemical bonding rock phosphate is not less available source of PO4 than it's soluble forms (see section Phosphorus, Balancing Soil Nutrition, Joel Simmons). It also contains B, S, Zn, Mn, Fe, Cu. Rock phosphates also very rich with K in easily assimilated form, and combo Ca+P is great for mineralization by bacterial mineralization, thus plants nutrition from soil and organics cycling improves. Soft rock phosphate is a clay found between layers of apatite. It has the same composition and value for plants nutrition. Rock phosphate сombined with humic acids as C source for bacteria forms biologically active product releasing PO4 (Replanish Min-Phos).
Be careful as PO4 availability from rock phosphate greatly depends on the contact surface, so milled rock phosphate as Lonfosco Micro Phos will be much more reactive than gravel, and lots of Ca can cause pH to raise. Use sparingly!
In soils the lower pH - the higher reactive rock phosphate is with maximum P release at pH=5.5 (Ellis), thus aquarium substrate should not be too acidic to prevent leaching P into the water. In soils at pH=4.0-5.5 most P is chemically bonded with Al/Fe/Ca/Mg from clay and precipitate, and insoluble compounds are generally not available for plant nutrition. The same is with pH=7.3+ (Ca-phosphates). But in soils this process is very slow, and with organic content in soil >5% "fresh" bond compounds will be solubilized by bacteria, fungi, organic acids from plant's roots and will be readily available for plants or adsorbed by CEC (actually by AEC, part of a CEC) and organic particulates until used by plants. With organic matter and proper pH bacteria ativity is enough to brake the bond and make P available for plants. Optimum pH for P uptake in soils 5.5-7.0 which is good for all the rest nutrients also. As below 6.0 Ca, Mg and Mo become increasingly unavailable, perfect range is pH=6.0-6.5. Aqua Soil Amazonia/II hase proper pH and actively adsorbing PO4 (ADA), high CEC=30-40meq/100g (»), so when used sparingly rock phosphate is safe enough. Africana and Malaya is a little bit too acidic for rock phosphate. Roсk phosphate in soils depletes after 4-6 years.
Rock phosphate is also used in controlled release fertilizers and very good to mix with zeolite (ZeoPro™ excellent for ponds) at 1:7 ratio. As for agriculture growth rates with rock phoshate + NH4 saturated zeolite mixture comparable to those with dosing superphosphate. You can also use steamed(!) bone meal P2O5=10-13% (VitaSoil®) - it is even better available form of P for plants. One table spoon is ~1200mg of P.

Any aquasoil can be precharged with macronutrients utilizing its high CEC by soaking (do not wash it!) into strong N-P-K solution for several hours. This will give a strong plants growth for the first weeks after setup.
Never use potassium chlorade KCl in substrate as it kills bacteria. Overdosing of K in substrate (>3-5%) will harm Ca and Mg availability. Potassium is a mobile element so it is mainly used in liquid fertilizers.

Microelements.
Now add source of microelements (esp. Fe) - Fritted Trace Elements (FTE)¬ as JBL Florapol, Micromax Fritted Trace Elements 503 or even micronized iron from gardening centers. In substrate anoxic conditions humic substances and special root enzymes will make metal oxides available for plants. Use sparingly!

Biostimulator.
Promoting fast root development with a biostimulator will give a strong initial growth boost approaching to ADA Aqia Soil. Valagro Radifarm® 1-0-3 (PDF 58Kb) is the best one you can find out there. It is NOT plant hormones but biostimulant or “transplant micro nutrient designed to promote vigorous rooting”. Radifarm® contains vegetal extract complex containing polysaccharides, steroid glucosides (saponin), free amino acids (tryptophane, arginine, asparagine), hormone precursors, betaines, enriched with specific supplementary vitamins complex (B1, B6, D, H, PP) and microelements. N 1%, K2O 3% (KOH), Fe-EDDHA 0.2%, Zn-EDTA 0.2%. Contains NO PO4, Na, Cl, SO4, MgCO3, CaCO3, CaSO4. Non toxic for water plants and animals. The results are amazing. Dilute 20-50ml in 0.2L of water and sprinkle over 90cm tanks bottom before placing any substrate on top to do not let it washed out in water column. Alternatives could be DIEHARD™ BioRush®, Liquid Karma™, Earth Juice Catalyst, Sweet™ etc. Among stimulating roots development and bacteria they are vital for arbuscular mychorrhizal fungi.

Arbuscular mychorrhizal fungi.
Among fertility and rooting biostimulants arbuscular mychorrhizal fungi (AMF) could be one of that "secret weapons" which makes wonders in ADA Aqua Soil. Mychorrhizal fungi literally means "fungus-roots" and found in terrestrial (80%, Smith and Read, 1997), wetland, and water plants (70%). This endomycorrhizal fungi forms symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with the root systems virtually expanding roots and by exchanging nutrients with plants greatly increasing nutrients availability, mainly PO4 and less N, gives significantly (x1.5+) higher growth rates with much less fertilization. This depends on species and soil media though. We never make maximum growth rates limiting it with light to reasonable levels as it makes much more managable and stable tank, but AMF still advantageous as with easier access to nutrients in substrate and less dependence on water column fertilizers plants will have less occurrence of nutrition limitations, thus less algae proliferation. Adding AMF cultures you have to know exactly what fungi species you need for water plants, otherwise it will be completely useless. For water plants it is Glomus mosseae, G. etunicatum, G. claroideum, G. intraradices, for rice it is a Acaulospora sp., G. fasciculatum and G. mosseae (ref.). All in one product DIEHARD™ BED PREP™ with 8 species of Glomus fungi, biostimulats and soil bacteria is the best one, and Myco Madness or MycoGrow™ Soluble are good mychorrhizal inoculant brands.

Deep Sea Water.
So we broken all ADA's sectrets? Not yet! The best AMF stimulator Sea-Crop™ (C-Gro) is a desalinated concentrate from deep sea Pacific Ocean water containing 80+ natural elements of standard seawater. Major minerals are Cl, Mg, Na, Ca,S, Br, K, I, B, Sr, Si (from MSDS PDF 51Kb). When used together with fertilizers it doubles(!) mychorrhizal fungi biomass. Surprisingly ADA luquid fertilizers line with the exсeption of Brighty K are formulated with... the same "Deep sea water". Isn't it a reason why ADA use it among just micronutrient for plants and the circle of ADA's approach is closed now? We definitely need a microscopic analyses of plant's roots grown in Aqua Soil with and without ADA's luquid ferts. While ORMUS is a rather doubtful thing, a kind of a penergetic (BTW it is scientifically proofed that they work and is widely used for now) Deep sea water minerals is for sure very benefitial for fungi, bacteria and plants. Just forget that ormus-talk and use C-Gro or Sea-Crop™ as a trace minerals resource and enjoy your underwater garden.

So we have a general formulation how to make aquasoils much more fertile and closer to ADA Aqua Soils:
Any aquasoil + earthworm castings + FTE JBL Florapol + bacteria cultures + biostimulant as Valagro Radifarm®.
Optional: AMF culture + Sea-Crop™, slow release macronutrients as Valagro Actiwin® or Osmocote® Pro.

As I mentioned earlier, if you have no aquasoils at all, you still can do amazingly good substrate for a planted tank with the same growth rates as ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia – just use this recipe with earthworm castings, and top off it with Akadama, any calcined clay or even diatomite. In case of a long term setup (1+ years) add 8-12mm lava stone at the bottom or use original product ADA Power Sand. Growth rates is not a problem, convenience and aesthetics is.

กระบวนการพอบอกด้แต่สูตรนี่ตัวใครตัวมันครับ
ดินสูตรผสมต่างๆ หลักๆแบบนี้พอได้เป็นแนวทางครับ
- สารจับยึด (a binding agent)พวก ดินเหนียว,bentonite,ดินกลุ่มผู้เลี้ยงบอนไซ akadama,เถ้าจากเหมืองหินภูเขาไฟ
(http://beautifulbonsaisecrets.com/bonsaicare/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Akadama.jpg)
เถ้าจากเหมืองหินภูเขาไฟ
(http://cache.boston.com/resize/bonzai-fba/Globe_Photo/2008/05/09/1210355051_8362/499w.jpg)
- ดินในเขตป่าร้อนชื้น peat เพื่อลด pH กลุ่มที่มี humic acids หรือ พีทมอส
(http://www.barvasandbrue.com/images/peat5.jpg)
(http://www.pet-dog-cat-supply-store.com/shop/shop_image/product/184df5b566775bfb22c2fd123dcc2403.jpg)

- ปุ๋ยอินทรีย์ต่างๆ ที่มีอินทรีย์สารสูงๆ  ผิวหน้าดินเขตร้อนชื้นต่างๆ ดินขุยไส้เดือน
(http://www.walterreeves.com/uploads/JPGs/earthwormcastings.JPG)

-ส่วนผสมอื่นๆ  โคลนสีต่างๆ ดินเหนียว ไดอะตอม กรดhumic ลิกไนท์
โดยเฉพาะเถ้า pozzolana - volcanic ash ที่มักเติมลงไปเพื่อให้เม็ดดินแข็ง  
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Pozzolana_in_Hands.jpg/250px-Pozzolana_in_Hands.jpg)

การใส่ดินเลน และหินภูเขาไฟ เพื่อให้สารอินทรีย์ถูกปลดปล่อยออกมาจากเม็ดดินช้าๆ เพิ่มค่า cation exchange capacity (CEC) http://microsoil.com/CEC.htm หรือการรักษาธาตุอาหารประจุ+ ไว้โดยรอบรากไม้น้ำ เพื่อแลกเปลี่ยนกับธาตุอาหารหลักรองต่างๆ ตามที่พืชต้องการ (ใช้ดินจึงมี % การรอด ความสวยงามของไม้น้ำ ฟอร์มง่ายมากกว่ากรวด)
(http://microsoil.com/images/CationExchange.gif)
(http://microsoil.com/images/CationExchange.gif)

็ีHumic acid  ที่มีในปริมาณสูงจะช่วยลด pH และ GH ได้
สารอินทรีย์ เปลือกไม้ เปลือกข้าว จะช่วงเร่งระบบจุลินทรีย์และโปรโตซัวให้ระบบกรองเซ็ตได้ไวขึ้น

ดินปลูกที่ใช้ไปนานๆจะเกิดการย่อยสลายโครงสร้างภายใน เพื่อให้สารอินทรีย์ปลดปล่อยปุ๋ยออกมาสู่รากพืช ส่วนใหญ่ผู้ผลิตมักออกแบบมาให้ดินมีอายุประมาณ 3 ปีจึงป่นเป็นเลนหมด
(http://amania.110mb.com/Images/aquasoils.jpg)

 process การทำดินไม้น้ำคร่าวๆ คงไม่มีโรงงานไหนมาให้ดูหรอกครับ แต่ผมตอบตามประสบการณ์ที่ทำงานโรงงานญี่ปุ่นเกี่ยวกับ food suppement มา
ผสม ดิน drum mixer
(http://www.agratechniek.nl/foto/fotosnieuw/mixer1.JPG)
บีบรีดให้เป็นแผ่นๆ เพื่อลดน้ำส่วนเกิน
(http://wecleanwater.com/assets/images/equipment/dewatering/belt-press-dewatering-467x350.jpg)

บดอัดผ่านรูให้เป็นชิ้นเล็กๆ
(http://www.granulatorsindia.com/oscillating_rotor.gif)

ปั้นก้อนโดยใช้ granulator คงไม่ใช่สแตนเลสตามภาพแน่ๆ
(http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00gvTtzkmKAlqA/Sugar-Coating-Mixer-Granulator-Mill-Pulverizer-Drier-Machine.jpg)

อบโดยใช้ Fluidize bed dryer สังเกตุดูฝุ่นติดดินจะน้อยหรือ tray dryer ใช้ลมร้อนจาก  boiler ไฟฟ้า หรือฟืน  อบแบบนี้ดินฝุ่นจะเยอะ
 Fluidize bed dryer มักใช้กับดินยี่ห้อที่เม็ดกลม ความชื้นน้อยๆ
(http://www.emt-india.net/process/pharmaceuticals/img/dryer.jpg)
(http://www.pharmaceutical-tech.com/products_services/process_machinery/images/fluid-bed-dryer.jpg)

Tray dryer ใช้กับดินเม็ดไม่กลม มักมีความชื้นเหลือในถุง
(http://en.howtopedia.org/images/b/b8/Tray_Dryers01.gif)
(http://www.dryer.com/english/images/Klamath_dolly_variant,_2002_sect1.jpg)

ร่อนคัดขนาด powder ที่ราคาสูงกว่าออกโดยระบบสั่น
 Vibro-Sieve Separator & Filter
(http://www.mill.com.tw/images/VIBRO-SIEVE%20SEPARATOR%20&%20FILTER/vibro-sieve-separator&filte.jpg)

บรรจุถุง
(http://product-image.tradeindia.com/00309178/b/2/Bag-Filling-Machine.jpg)

เนื้อหาบางส่วนมาจากที่นี่
ในกระทู้นี้ภาษาอังกฤษนะครับ เปรียบเทียบดินไว้หลายยี่ห้อเลย ท้ายๆยังมี เคล็ดลับการทำดินให้เหมือดิน ฟกฟ อีกด้วย http://amania.110mb.com/Chapters/Tech/sub-aquasoils_en.html

ดินของ oliver Knott

 จะเผาที่อุณหภูมิประมาณ 400 องศาเพื่อทำลายปรสิต ฆ่าเชื้อในดิน รอบแรกเป็นการเผาให้ดินแข็ง ทำลายสารเคมีตกค้างบางตัว เรียกว่าการเผา bisque เหมือนการทำดินเผาทั่วไป
100 องศา ไล่ความชื้น
220 องศาทำลายวัชพืช ปรสิต ไข่ปรสิต
300-400 องศาเผาสารอินทรีย์ให้แข็งไม่ให้ดินคืนรูป
 

การเผา glaze 200 องศาเซลเซียส เป็นการเผาเพื่อขัดผิวเพราะดินของเถ้าแก่เค้าค่อนข้างกลม   
(http://i.pbase.com/o2/11/259611/1/107348799.AhtYT4Dh.Beginn06.jpg)
(http://i.pbase.com/o2/11/259611/1/107348774.YOs1YDxw.NatureSoil01.jpg)
แถมรากดำสักกอ
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dLSVgS5AxBI/SM3_ujOcBqI/AAAAAAAANC4/8x2Cg9_DCIE/s400/OliverKnotthugeMicrosorium.jpg)

นายแน่มาก เดี๋ยวเจอดินขุยไส้เดือนพี่ไทย กันหน่อย [on_026] ใส่แล้วไส้เดือนช่วยพรวนดินกระจาย
(https://sites.google.com/site/thaihappyworm/_/rsrc/1279876491191/kar-leiyng-sideuxn/20.jpg)
(https://sites.google.com/site/thaihappyworm/_/rsrc/1279875546205/kar-leiyng-sideuxn/worm.jpg?height=150&width=200)
(https://sites.google.com/site/thaihappyworm/_/rsrc/1279876901113/kar-leiyng-sideuxn/DSC06265.JPG?height=240&width=320)
https://sites.google.com/site/thaihappyworm/kar-leiyng-sideuxn